The Reverend James Jackson Cross. The Patriarch of the Pillarites

The Patriarch of the Pillarites

The Reverend James Jackson 1796 to 1878

While researching fell history on the internet  I came across an article in The Fell and Rock Climbing Club Journal of 1907, page 40, which referred to 'The Patriarch of the Pillarites', which was the title assumed by the Reverend James Jackson of Sandwith, Whitehaven. He had given himself that name following his fascination with being an octogenarian, coupled with his burning desire to climb Pillar Rock, in the Ennerdale Valley. He achieved this and wanted to continually repeat this feat on an annual basis, which was to lead to his death. Other climbers erected a temporary iron cross, then later had the nearby rock carved with his initials and the year of his death. Any walker of the lake district with an interest in the histories it generates knows of the rock carving of a cross to the Scafell tragedy of September 1903, where four climbers fell to their deaths, which altered the techniques of mountaineering in lakeland. I was fascinated to question why with two such high profile incidents occurring, why was the Scafell carving so well photographed, yet the Pillar one had no image on the internet whatsoever? This was despite a great variety of articles on 'The Patriarch'. Intrigued I set out to find the cross and to try and add far more detail on Reverend James Jackson's earlier life as the pastor of Rivington, Lancashire, assisted by a visit to his church there. Over the last few years I have came back to this story and can now add that detail, so adding to the history of the English Lakes.

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James Jackson’s place of birth has long been unclear to people writing informative internet explanations of his life. He was born at Kendal on 12^th April 1796 and baptised there on 26^th August of that year. His parents were Robert and Agnes Jackson and James had an elder brother called John who was born on 10^th June 1794 at Kendal, baptized on 14^th August of that year. 

Nothing further is known of any other family members, it appears these were the only children of Robert and Agnes. 

His early childhood remains a mystery, beyond a mention at an inquest following his death that he was educated at both Appleby and St. Bees. It was then recorded that he joined the army and served in the Napoleonic war of 1815.

James’s life begins to be better documented when he chooses the church as his calling in life and on 16^th July in 1820 the Lord Bishop of Chester held an ordination ceremony at Windermere (Bowness) where 14 Priests were ordained, and nine Deacons appointed, with 500 children being later confirmed. Previous to the Ordination ceremony an excellent speech on the duties and responsibilities of the Christian Minister was given by one of the candidates for Priests Orders. The lesson was ‘2 Cor., c, vi, v, 4 – “In all things approving ourselves as the Ministers of God” ’; the candidate was James Jackson, who would be 24 years of age when appointed.

The Reverend Jackson was to become the Minister for Rivington, near Chorley, Lancashire. He married a Susanna Thorpe at the Parochial Chapel of Rivington on 8^th September 1835 and the officiating Minster was a J. Whittaker. Both James and Susanna are recorded as ‘of this chapel’; she was born there, and her parents died before she was 16 years old; Susanna would have been married at the age of 19 and married a man 20 years older than her. Although it may turn a head in more modern times, he would be of some standing in the community, in constant employment and financially secure. The union would have been of mutual benefit to both. The two witnesses were Timothy and Ann Lightoller, although Ann was illiterate and was only capable of making her mark: ‘X’.  It is believed the Jacksons had two children. Agnes was the first born in 1836, baptised on 10^th June at The Chapel, Rivington and grew into adulthood, surviving beyond both her parents. Franklin Rawdon Jackson was the second born in the second quarter of 1838, but he died aged one on 5^th November 1839 and was buried at Rivington.

In these early years there appears no insight into his character, beyond him being a man of the cloth but intriguingly there was an incident at Rivington where at four o’clock on the morning of 25^th June 1837 the Reverend was woken by the noise of men shouting outside the vicarage, then the sound of a stone rolling down the roof was heard by him. He looked out the window and saw two men withdrawing from his porch.

The Vicarage at Rivington, home of the Reverend Jackson.

 He may have been a man of the cloth, but he also had a family to protect and was an ex-soldier. He went out and confronted them, the main antagonist refused to give his name, so the reverend seized his cap resulting in the man threatened to kick him. The two were Thomas Bouch and Charles Thompson. That assault appears to have happened as both appeared before the magistrates. Bouch was there for a breach of the peace and assault, one presumes the threatened kick on the brave reverend. Bouch was ordered to find sureties and ordered to pay costs of 14s 6d. Thompson was before them for being drunk only and ordered to pay costs of 5s 6d. This could have started as a drunken prank with any resident of Rivington as the victim, or jealousy at this particular man’s standing in the community. Another possibility is that the reverend was not liked by all members of the community and greater insights into his character will later become apparent, making this scenario certainly well worth consideration.

There was the mundane reporting of local weddings in the family columns of local papers, naming the reverend as the officiating clergy, but life took on the ordinary existence of a pastor.

On Monday 31st July 1843 a half yearly meeting was held at The Swam Hotel, Bolton, by the proprietors of the Bolton and Preston Railway. Present was the Reverend James Jackson of Rivington, who asked for a point to be explained whether the first act was to be revived or the tram road and canal were to be filled in and converted to a rail line, and what the cost of each would be? Clearly, he kept an interest in local politics, on behalf of his parishioners.

In April 1847 he is listed as a contributor to ‘The Cobden National Tribute Fund’ where he donated £1 to the fund. £60, 692, 3s 10d was the national total to this point. Richard Cobden was a British Statesman and economist who advocated free trade and non-interventionism both during and after the efforts to abolish the Corn Laws and he believed them to be the solution to world prosperity and peace. It was given the title of Cobdenism and still forms a debate to this day in political and economic circles. Clearly the Reverend also had a viewpoint on world politics and economics.

In February 1850 he assisted another parishioner at court in the settlement of a claim on an old lady’s estate, where she had promised him money for assistance, he gave her on the death of her husband. It was through the assistance of Reverend Jackson that the money was awarded.

Another insight into his interests, perhaps through retirement, was that in July 1856 he appeared as a witness at a case where a Thomas Latham was claiming £50 following the death of a neighbour, Mrs. Alice Marsh. He had assisted her husband following a robbery in January 1850, staying with him for over 2 months. Following the husband’s death, he went on to assist the lady, who then gave him a note promising him £100 on her death. He came across objections from a relative, Robert Eatock, and the amount was arbitrated to £50, which Mr Latham agreed to. There was an allegation that Latham had plied Mrs. Marsh with raw rum, a quantity of 10 gallons was suggested and denied.  Even that was not paid, so Latham took the matter to court. One of the witnesses he called was the retired Reverend James Jackson, of Rivington, who had been present on 3rd March 1853 when Mrs. Marsh had said that: ‘Tom ought to have it.’ The Judge found for the plaintiff, quoting the corroboration by the Reverend as sufficient evidence. Clearly his status and reputation spoke volumes to his credibility as a witness to events.

 There were however two very well documented events in Reverend James Jackson’s life, both made famous by none other than himself and the first was to occur at Rivington. The weather cock of the church blew down in high winds and required re-seating on the spire. The ‘steeplejacks’, most probably local builders, declined the job which must have disheartened the reverend. That fulfilling this parish need was refused and by professionals must have been beyond the pale to him, so he seized the article from them and climbed the steeple, replacing the cock on it’s spire in service to the local community. The placing was in his own words a two-handed job, but there it stands to this day as a testament to his brave, (some would say foolhardy) feat.

The Church at Rivington

The weathercock

Some locals were in awe, others aghast that their pastor had taken such an unnecessary risk to his life. It was said by James that in the short walk back to his residence he had formed the feat into words in his own mind, this being a short poem, or ditty:

“Who has not heard of Steeple Jack,

That Lion-hearted Saxon,

Though I am not he, he was my sire,

For I am Steeple Jackson.”

On Saturday 6^th September 1856, by virtue of a charter granted by Queen Elizabeth I, at the request of Bishop Pilkington (who founded Rivington School), a meeting was convened at the Chapelry at Rivington where the ‘dwellers and remainers’ were allowed to vote in their next reverend. This followed the resignation of James Jackson after 33 years of pastoral service to that community. Of the two candidates that were put forward, the Reverend Thomas Sutcliffe of Blackburn gained 75 votes, the Reverend Thomas Crossfield of Stafford gaining 45 votes. There was some legal objection on the matter, it’s basis being whether the occupiers of Belmont had any right to vote, yet Mr. Sutcliffe was duly appointed to replace James Jackson.

James then surfaced at Broughton-in-Furnace living at a house called Broom Hill on New Street. John, his older brother by two years, was the inn-keeper at The Kings Head Hotel in Broughton-in-Furnace. When at that address James came into possession of a Celtic artefact of the ‘perforated or wedge-shaped class’ which was dug up near Broughton Tower during the construction of the Coniston Railway. It was 9¾ inches in length, 3 inches breadth, 2 inches thick and weighed just over 2lbs. He is known to have been there on 7^th August 1861. Around August 1863 however, he purchased the house at Summer Hill, Sandwith, near Whitehaven, for £455. It is here he resided with both his wife and daughter for the rest if his life.

The Reverend, now in retirement at Whitehaven, appears to have been a man of art, for on 28th April 1863 he was a member of the Art Union of London. Listed in the London Evening Standard were members entitled to select a work of art of different values. ‘Reverend J. Jackson, Whitehaven,’ was in the 10 shillings category.

Art was not his only interest and in June of 1866 the Whitehaven Industrial Exhibition took place and was advertised as guaranteed to take the interest of the mineralogist, botanist, with steam engines to further captivate the interest. Many inventions were exhibited; so many that only a passing comment could be made to each and their inventors. One exhibitor was: ‘Rev. J. Jackson, Sandwith - economic ball and socket double truss.’ Because it got the same rudimentary mention as all the other inventions, it is unclear what its engineering purpose was.

It was while at Sandwith that another event occurred that gave some insight into his character. It was reported long after his death that the reverend had taken to law and ruined a poor man who had enclosed a trifle of garden land. The implication would seem to be one of a particularly unchristian view, by a well off former minister bringing to ruin a poor villager.

It was also whilst he was at Sandwith that the feats of endurance he was to become renowned for occurred, both in his stamina, bravery, and risk taking. If this Reverend was anything, he was a self-publicist, but there is no reason to ever doubt the tales he would tell to show these qualities. He was also opinionated, sometimes to his own detriment. He was to write a series of letters to George Seatree a well-known climber and president of the Fell and Rock-Climbing Club, and these letters were a further insight into this retired reverend character.

He told Seatree:

 ' . . . during my lengthened and varied and still robust existence I have been beneath the Falls of Niagara. I have sung " God Save The King " in the hall of St. Peter's. I have ascended Vesuvius in the eruption of 1828. I have capped Snowdon in Wales, and Slieve Donard in Ireland, and nearly all the high hills in this district, many of which I can see from my residence. It only remains for me to mount the Pillar Rock, and then I may sigh for something else to conquer.'

With reference to Pillar Rock, one feat brought some adverse reaction to James Jackson’s stated view. In the letters it was commented on how the brothers, Edward and Thomas Westmorland had ascended the rock in the company of their sister. ‘N.Y.Z.’ wrote in to the paper expressing that he had read the story with ‘incredulous amazement’, believing they must have ascended Pillar Mountain, not the rock itself. This view was based on N.Y.Z's simple belief that it was beyond the capabilities of a woman. However, that same month Mr. Seatree and Mr. Stanley Martin made the ascent and found their names on the top. Reverend Jackson then admitted he had written the doubting letter and now accepted the truth of the account. The Westmorland’s were reported to have always held this slur on their character against James Jackson.

The Westmorlands

In the course of the letters the Reverend enquired of Mr. Seatree what equipment he had used to ascend the rock; spikes, ropes etc.? He asserted his powers of endurance by stating:

‘To give you some idea of my powers of endurance, I will briefly say that Oct. 1st, 1864, I walked 46 miles in 14 ½ hours, Oct. 4th, I walked 56 miles in 18 hours; and on Oct. 7th, 60 miles, my crowning exploit, in 19 hours 50 minutes. The last mentioned was to Keswick and back, via Whitehaven and Cockermouth.’

In 1875 he attempted to ascend the rock in company but had to concede to only a partial success and had been benumbed by the cold. They did not achieve the summit but were satisfied they had gained the correct route. He wrote to Seatree and said he hoped before the summer was too far advanced, he expected to vindicate the title of ‘Patriarch of the Pillarites’ he had given to himself. He wrote to Seatree dated 1^st June 1875 and informed him he had achieved the summit and returned unscathed to his home. He said he would send an account for publication for 10^th June Whitehaven News.

Reverend James Jackson photograph recording his passion with Pillar Rock.

Although climbing Pillar Rock had become a goal in his life, which he achieved, his fascination with it would eventually lead to his death.

On Saturday 4^th May 1878 the Coroner Mr. John McElvie, held an inquest at Wasdale Head. Giving evidence was William Ritson, farmer and owner of the Hotel. He said that he had known the Reverend for ten to twelve years; he had arrived on the Tuesday afternoon and had set off at 5am on Wednesday with the intention of climbing Pillar Rock. When he did not return, he sent two men to look for him. They were John Jenkinson, a labourer of Burnthwaite, and Isaac Fletcher of Wasdale Head, to look for him but they returned and had been unsuccessful. They went again on Friday, finding his body in Great Doup. His watch had stopped at three o’clock, albeit undamaged; £2 gold, 10s 6d in silver, 4d copper along with other articles were found on him. There was also a bottle which contained a verse, on the cork was ‘Rev. J. Jackson, Sandwith’, evidently meant to be placed on the rock, once ascended. The verse was as follows:

‘Two elephantine properties are mine,

For I can bend to pick up pin or plack;

And when this year the Pillar Rock I climb,

Four score years and two’s the howdah on my back.

Date of the third ascent, May 1, 1878.”

Of course, the only thing the jury could do was to find that death was the result of an accident. His two sticks were found nearby, one 40 yards above him and the other 100 yards below.

Whilst awaiting the inquest the terribly disfigured body had been placed in an outhouse of the Inn.

The funeral took place at St. Bees, which is very near to Sandwith.

The Grave

A close-up of his name on the headstone.

A couple of years after his death two veteran mountaineers, Mr. F. H. Bowring and Mr. J. Maitland, both contemporaries of the Patriarch, built a cairn and placed an iron cross on the spot where the Reverend Jackson had been found, but the winter storms carried both away. On August 16th, 1906, a more lasting memorial was completed. Another veteran, Mr. C. A. 0. Baumgartner, the oldest living Pillarite, having ascended the Rock so far back as 1850 in conjunction with Mr. J. W. Robinson and Mr. Seatree, had the initials "J. J." and the date " 1878" chiselled on to the nearest suitable rock to where the body was found, by Mr. (George) Benson Walker, marble mason, Cockermouth. Taking advantage of the day set apart by Mr. Robinson, (of Robinson's cairn fame) one of Cumberland's foremost cragsmen, for his hundredth ascent of the Pillar Rock, an opportunity was found to have the work done. Mr. Robinson, Mr. Walker, and Mr. Seatree were accompanied by Mrs. Robinson, Miss Cleeve, Tasmania, and Miss A. E. Seatree. Mr. Walker found the rock to be very hard, but in a few hours an effective memorial of the old clergyman was inscribed which nothing short of an earthquake should destroy.

An earthquake certainly has not destroyed the memorial, but the coupled effect of time and weather has etched into the numbers and initials, making them all but indistinct from the rough rock face. The cross that accompanies the lettering is still clear to see and the one’s fingers can read the letters, that the eye can hardly see.

The cross to Reverend James Jackson. Hollydog applying some perspective.

The Cross in close-up

I knew he had fallen in Great Doup, but after four searches I was still unable to locate the inscription. Through a former work colleague, who is also a Mountain Rescue team member, he was able to ask some fellow climbers. Steve Reid, the owner of Needle Sports at Keswick, was able to assist, and I thank him greatly for that help. He had located this elusive memorial and manged to pass me greater detail on its location.  A further visit finally located the writing, along with the cross. Crosses are carved in the landscape to commemorate the passing of a notable human being and this deserves to be known further afield, especially after 141 years.

Postscript: On his death Reverend Jackson left effects to the value of £10,000 in his probate, with the executors of his will being his daughter Agnes, and his niece Elizabeth Jackson. His wife Susannah died on 25th January 1883, aged 66 years. Both she and Agnes are buried in the same grave. Agnes had married a William Pettigrew (who was 20 years younger than her and an Irish born farmer's son) in 1885 and died a widow on 21st February 1905, leaving effects of the value £1,464 16s 5d, to Miss Ellen Berry and Ernest Lamb, who was a draper.

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**I have previously published this account, and other new material, for public knowledge. I did so in the expectation that anyone wishing to further expand that public knowledge would do so by highlighting this original account, and then adding new information they discover themselves, as I have above. Sadly I am aware of one site that has repeated a large section of an account of another all but forgotten lakeland memorial to two boys that drowned and making out it was new, despite his following my many new lakes history accounts. I was asked by a person writing a book for Wasdale MRT for the generation of funds to assist that worthy cause. I gladly agreed to its use and he stated he would reference my original account. Such a stance by the latter is an honourable one; I hope the former person reflects on his conduct and no longer copies my work and then makes out he has found a new lakes history; that is dishonourable and diminishes him.**

(C)opyright

For further reading on the letters, this is the link. It may only be of interest to climbers or lakes historians: 

https://scafellhike.blogspot.com/2019/06/a-series-of-letters-by-reverend-to.html

The Scafell tragedy of 1903 Broadrick, Jupp, Garrett, and Ridsdale.

Like myself, walkers of the Lakeland fells begin out of a desire for fresh air, peace from the routine and pressures of work, pure exercise and not least, to test oneself in the face of nature. It is not really a sense of the history of a place or area that initially drives you to walk the fells or climb the rock faces, yet you cannot do so without beginning to gain some knowledge of the events that shaped the landscape and the people who worked the land, or enjoyed their own quest for adventure. Some events are known only to local people and a select few, yet others are known by a much broader audience.
One such event was the tragedy of 21 September 1903 when four ground breaking climbers, R. W. Broadrick, H. L. Jupp, A. E. W. Garrett and S. Ridsdale, set out to climb the rock faces of Scafell which tragically ended in the death of all four climbers. It is not my intention to enter into any great detail the reasons why this came about, many other sites go into this and I am a walker not a climber. 
The brief circumstances are they met another party of climbers near Lord's Rake and departed from them at around 2.30pm, each party doing separate climbs. The other party returned back along the rake at around 5.40pm and found all four climbers roped together at the foot of the rock-face, Broadrick, Jupp and Garrett were already dead. Ridsdale, although seriously injured was imploring the others to look after his colleagues, unaware they were dead. One of the other parties raced for help and on returning at around 8.30pm they managed to get Ridsdale down to the valley by 03.30am. They reached the valley floor and Ridsdale was still alive, yet by the time they got to the Wasdale Hotel he had passed away. That is a time span of nearly 10 hours between knowledge of the incident to recovery of the injured party and that is only to the valley floor.
 From my experience, in today's modern age, from discovery a winch helicopter would be on the scene within 45 minutes and the injured would be at Hensingham Hospital (Whitehaven) within 10 minutes of scene evacuation, or 15 minutes to Carlisle, or 40 minutes to Newcastle for more specialist accident treatment. How times change
The other bodies were recovered the following day and the inquest held on 23 September (a modern inquest would be at least one year, if not approaching two).

Wasdale Head with Great Gable at it's head, St. Olaf's church in the foreground trees.

Many walkers search out the cross while at the base of Lord's Rake, knowing of this iconic monument, mentioned in many reports on the internet and books. There are also references and images of the Grave within St Olaf's Church near the valley head.

St Olaf's Church, Wasdale Head (note the shadow of the entrance gate off the lane).

Above is the church with the first grave being the one containing three of the climbers who fell. It was a tradition to be buried where one fell, not unlike The Alps, Himalayas or war graves.

The grave

Inscription

IN LOVING MEMORY OF

 HENRY L. JUPP SECOND SON OF

CHARLES JUPP OF CROYDON

AGED 29

ALSO OF ALGERNON E. W. GARRETT

ONLY SON OF THE LATE

COMMANDER E. GARRETT R. N.

(OF DEVONSHIRE) AGED 27

ALSO OF STANLEY RIDSDALE

SECOND SON OF

ALFRED RIDSDALE OF KEW GARDENS

AGED 26.

WHO LOST THEIR LIVES ON SCAWFELL

SEPT. 21ST 1903.

"ONE MOMENT STOOD THEY AS THE ANGELS STAND

HIGH IN THE STAINLESS IMMINENCE OF AIR

THE NEXT THEY WERE NOT, TO THEIR

FATHERLAND TRANSLATED UNAWARE"

The above grave quotation is the second verse of a poem titled,'On a Grave at Grindelwald', by Frederic William Henry Myers (1843–1901). The full poem is (with plural replacing singular): 

HERE let us leave him; for his shroud the snow,

  For funeral lamps he has the planets seven,

For a great sign the icy stair shall go

  Between the heights to heaven.

 

One moment stood he as the angels stand,

  High in the stainless eminence of air;

The next, he was not, to his fatherland

  Translated unaware.

The rock face before the Lord's Rake ascent going to the right (difficult to make out but the cross is at the end of my dogs tail

The cross inscribed into the rock face

The carved initials to the right of the cross

Lord's Rake route is an inevitable and famous route onto this second highest fell in England. Many of those walkers are aware of the tragedy from literature on the internet or guide books bought on Lakeland walking routes. Those that are inevitably look for the cross at the base of the rake, carved into the rock face in tribute to the four fallen climbers who lost their lives on that fateful day.

Lord's Rake

I decided to post this account as one part of the event is largely unknown. As stated above, the incident, memorial cross at the base of Lord's Rake and the grave in Wasdale are all well known, to greater or lesser degrees. The one article missing from the story is that of Broadrick. He was an individual from Windermere and the family had his body returned for burial there. The only information I can find referring to his burial site is a local newspaper recognising the centenary in 2003, yet any commemoration appears to have only been held at Wasdale.

St Mary's church, Windermere.

Richard W. Broadrick's Grave

The grave inscription

The Broadrick family graves, R. W. Broadrick is the second right.

It seemed an appropriate tribute to have at least one site on the internet where all four climbers can be commemorated next to each other, albeit in photographs on an internet page. They died together, let them at least (albeit visually) Rest In Peace together, finally.

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**I have previously published this account, and other new material, for public knowledge. I did so in the expectation that anyone wishing to further expand that public knowledge would do so by highlighting this original account, and then adding new information they discover themselves. Sadly I am aware of one site that has repeated a large section of an account of another all but forgotten lakeland memorial to two boys that drowned and making out it was new, despite his following my many new lakes history accounts. I was asked by a person writing a book for Wasdale MRT for the generation of funds to assist that worthy cause. I gladly agreed to its use and he stated he would reference my original account. Such a stance by the latter is an honourable one; I hope the former person reflects on his conduct and no longer copies my work and then makes out he has found a new lakes history; that is dishonourable and diminishes him.**

(C)opyright

Crag Fell, Grike & Lank Rigg, Ennerdale.

Thursday 31st January saw three of us in the Ennerdale area of The Lakes. One of the party had never been on the Grike range to the west of Ennerdale. This was my second visit this year and I was interested in changing our previous route slightly to take account of the path on the far shore of Ennerdale Water, a path I had not previously walked. We parked on the Bleach Green Cottage car park, on the south side of The River Ehen and headed past the cottage toward the foot of the fell taking the track that veers to the right of Crag Farm House, heading for the gate.

Setting off.

 

 

The weather was not as good as the forecast had indicated, or we were being too optimistic, however it didn't appear to be about to rain anytime soon, though it was cold. The clouds were off the fell tops so it was to be a walk where we could navigate by sight.

Once through the gate we aimed slightly to the right and picked out the worn track (not marked on a map, but very distinctive) that goes directly up and connects with the footpath through the wood which then goes over Ben Gill by the waterfall. Our first destination was to be Crag Fell, with the intention of heading to Grike, then dropping off the back to Lank Rigg.

 

The view over Ennerdale Water and the weir with Bowness Knott and Great Borne on the far shore.



 

Striding out for Crag Fell.

 

The snow was just clinging to sheltered areas of the fells and these are all rolling fells with no crag faces to encounter so we expected no safety issues, we all carried trail spikes and I had an ice axe for overkill. Both dogs were loving this outing being grass to run about on and soft on the paw. The summit of this fell is never quite in sight until you are just about on it, but the near top is in view whereupon it flattens to a gradual and easily manageable incline, so it was 'heads down and crack on' time.

 

 

Crag Fell Summit

 

None of these three fells rate in the most dramatic fell category of lakeland peaks, though you do get the contrast of the fells and the solway plain that skirts between the coastline and the National park. They also afford you views across to Galloway and to the Isle of Man when the views are clearer, though not today unfortunately. Being a west cumbrian I was not here to glimpse these, having had a lifetime of looking at them, though I am struck by how others take time to soak in what I have taken for granted all my life. What I personally enjoy from these vantages, is the different aspects looking to the Buttermere ranges and to Pillar. Ennerdale is a much more secluded valley than say Langdale or Borrowdale, the only longer drive for most walkers and tourists is to Wastwater yet this draws people for the iconic Scafell Pike and the dramatic screes. Ennerdale has no single iconic feature, even Pillar is a long access from here and people tend to travel to Wastwater to scale this group, yet Ennerdale's remoteness is it's joy, away from the crowds with many features of interest not least the ancient settlements between Latterbarrow and Starling Dodd. These were not on our itinerary today though and our next destination was Grike.

 This fell is a small drop off and gradual climb up to the summit, having two cairns near it's summit. The views are much the same as from Crag Fell, except you see less of the lake and more of the plain toward the coast below St. Bees Head, the closest point in England to Ireland.

 

 

Heading for Grike.

 

We had devised a plan here to go 'off path' and head to the wood with the intention of making a more direct route up to Lank Rigg. On the last walk we had gone through the larch plantation, which was hard work, but on looking back the plantation had been cut down to the west and we had not been far from it. We took this more open approach to Whoap Beck and headed directly up Lank Rigg. This was a slog, but was to be the last real climb of the day, so again, heads down, hang on to the shirttails of the one in front and try not to get blown out the back of the group.

 

 

Lank Rigg Trig point summit.

 

Once on the summit we took time to address any clothing issues and we were to have our bait here so I donned an outer jacket for warmth while stationary. We dropped toward the back of the fell slightly to get some shelter from the wind. Although not harsh, it was a cold day and the wind enhanced it's bite. We skipped the lower cairn top to the west which normally affords views of Sellafield and the plain to Ravenglass as it was hidden by descended cloud. We had our food, got loaded up with tea and coffee, took in the views of Caw Fell and Pillar, but now it was time to start thinking of our second refreshment stop, The Fox and Hounds back at Ennerdale Bridge. ( Well, you didn't think the walk was about three Wainwrights did you?)

 We headed to the summit of Whoap and then took the gate through the wall and skirted Boathow Crag and followed the stone wall line which is to the right of Red Beck, going down to Ennerdale Water. Although steep, it was safe, even on the higher frozen ground. Once at the valley floor we headed on the path back to the weir that raised the level of Ennerdale.

 

 

Heading to the Red Beck wall, in the valley bottom is Bowness Knott, in the distance is Knock Murton.

 

The lake path with Anglers Crag ahead.

 

Looking back up Ennerdale Valley from below Anglers Crag.

 

This was the part of the walk that had interested me. I have not done this path before and loved it's views. As a lake shore path it is not a gentle stroll, being rocky in places and a steep scree drop to the lake at some points on it's route. We skirted round Anglers Crag and although these fells are rounded this crag face is steep, dramatic to view and you don't get a sense of it from the usual Bowness Knott side of the lake.

 We could have skirted the fell bottom but I wanted to take the weir path, again I've seen this from a distance but never actually been to it. En route to this we came across a tribute seat to:-

 

 

Ian Forsyth and Prince

Lake District Search and Rescue Dogs

Association

 

Two bunches of flowers had laid laid at this fitting tribute to these two worthy members of an association that will give it's time freely to search and rescue 'fell users' when in need, yet a search of the Internet reveals nothing of this memorial. I would be interested if anyone has any information on this tribute.

 Soon we were at the weir itself and a final look back on Ennerdale Water before a half a kilometre walk to the car.

 

 

Ennerdale Water weir, Anglers Crag(right), Bowness Knott(left)

 

 



Journey's end and a quick change out of our fell clothing at the car, followed by a short car journey to Ennerdale Bridge and The Fox and Hounds. This is another gem of this valley with a variety of beers, mainly local with an added twist of travel miles marked on the pumps. Some of the beers were from Ennerdale brewery, 2.3travel miles away, even the Loweswater Gold was 35travel miles, though it is no longer produced at Loweswater in the next valley. Either way the Ennerdale Gold and the Loweswater Gold couldn't be faulted. With a good roaring fire and quality beers to warm up three retired(old) men it was a perfect end to a cold 12.5km, 850m ascent, brilliant short day's walking.

 









Five Loweswater Wainwrights and an iconic pub.

Thursday 24th January saw three of us set out for a walk in the Loweswater range, to take in the fells of Burnbank, Blake, Gavel, Hen Comb and finally Melbreak. Well, I say finally as the last destination was to be The Kirkstyle Inn of course. The weather forecast was given as overcast though the journey down from Carlisle looked as if it would be better than this and when we set off from Maggie's Bridge (NY135210) the sky couldn't have looked more promising. The White fells were all around us, with a glorious blue sky backdrop as we headed along the Watergate Farm track which skirts Loweswater.

 

Loweswater looking north from Watergate Farm track.

 

Striding out for Holme Wood, Burnbank our first fell in the background.

Although this looks cold there was little wind and the temperature was reasonable throughout the day so it was actually a pleasant walk. We were soon to pass the farm and turn left once through the gate heading through Holme Wood. Our only real obstacle here was a blown down tree blocking the path, which had not been there on two previous walks this year.

 

Holme Wood track slanting through to Holme Beck.

 

We pressed on here, the chest exertions deepening but once through the wood there is a slight pause before the next uphill drive. Once over Holme Beck a track goes off to the left and we headed along this until we came to the fence that goes directly up. We donned the trail spikes to give some purchase in the slippery ground under the soft downy snow. This gave us a breather before the fence trail, a real Achilles stretcher. You can only get your head down and drive on here, the near top eventually comes as the incline perceptibly lessens. You can turn to take in the view of the Mosser range of Low Fell and Fellbarrow, the lake beneath and view toward Grasmoor. Here we went over the fence and followed the peaty path for Burnbank summit.

 

The hard climb over, walking to Burnbank summit.

 It is an unremarkable summit yet as with the Mosser range, you get clear views of the Solway Plain, Robin Rigg windfarm(60) in the Solway Firth and on clearer less hazy days, of Scotland and The Isle of Man. A turn to the left and it was now a drop then shallower climb in iced peat to the cairn that is Blake Fell and the highest point of the walk at 573m. The views all around are wonderful but these fells, with the exception of Melbreak are peat paths in nature and if you are looking for a crag type scramble these first four do not fit the bill. They may also not be the biggest Wainwrights, but you have had a walk by the time you get to the end of this route. A gem of this fell is to move slightly to the west and take in the view of Congra Moss and Knock Murton Fell.

 

A frozen Congra Moss and Knock Murton Fell.

 

Time now to push on for Gavel Fell and then change direction for Hen Comb. Gavel again is a rounded fell with little to remember it by other than the views of the Buttermere range. It is always educational to see the lakes and fells from different angles and a walk on these if for nothing else, gives you this. As we passed Gavel's summit we were thinking of when to take our food stop and decided on Hen Comb summit, or nearby. We dropped off and followed the fence line through Whiteoak Moss. This is normally boggy, but the iced conditions made it good to walk in; other times I've had boots full of peat water here. I suddenly saw the sun on the grass tufts, nothing in spring or summer, but the contrast of hay and snow in low sun just made them magically jump out of the landscape.

 

Whiteoak Moss, heading now for Hen Comb, Buttermere valley opening.

 

To follow this fence it finishes then abruptly, but just carry on directly up and you meet a path coming from Floutern Cop/ Great Borne direction and it lessens in incline to a gentle walk to the top. We took in the views here and as last time, headed to the saddle of Melbreak, though had our food & hot drink before we dropped off Hen Comb for the Mosedale Beck crossing.

 

Melbreak with Grasmoor behind, seen from Hen Comb.

 Once the food was in us we headed down and found the beck less of a challenge than our last outing where another colleague had ended up in the beck and not over it These are the challenges we take on, you can laugh about them months later, but they're not funny at the time. We pressed on for the saddle but it was here I was beginning to feel it in my legs; still the last real climb so it was a 'grit of the teeth' and a push for the top. Thankfully we made the saddle and the summit was to our far right. We knew this but it means we needed to then come back on ourselves. We took in the magnificent views of the Buttermere ranges from the summit though.

 

Looking back on Hen Comb from Melbreak's saddle.

 

Melbreak Summit, looking deep down Buttermere Valley, Fleetwith Pike in the far centre.

 

Left to right, Whiteside, Grasmoor and Whiteless Pike, taken from Melbreak.

Now the pub thankfully beckons and we retraced our steps and onto the more northern and 3m lower peak of Melbreak. Here once again the Solway Plain vistas opened but were overshadowed by the distant sight of The Kirkstyle Inn. We felt like the three wise men must have as Bethlehem came into view, as I'm sure there was a halo around the pub.

 

'Heaven' to the back right corner of the wood.

This had been an easy underfoot walk even in snow, but newcomers to it need to be aware here of a steep rocky and scree descent to Loweswater. In ice you get close to steep edges or can slip and keep sliding. Take time on this way down. If you drive down the Lorton Valley to do this walk, look at the right face of Melbreak, it is steep and that is where you will come down on this route, though there are lesser ways off..
 Soon we were on the valley floor and walking toward the hamlet of Loweswater with it's pub and church. You can't avoid the purgatory of having to walk past The Kirkstyle Inn in order to get back to the car. Somehow we resisted and made the car. A 5hr walk of 17kms with 1150m ascent in powdery snow. A short hop in the car and three pints of Cumbrian Legendary Ales Pacific Voyage (Fletcher Christian is an infamous son of Cumberland and you look toward his old farm near Cockermouth) one each; the beer is served in rare to see measured pint glasses, absolute nectar of the Gods. This was washed down with an every bit as good, pint of Loweswater Gold and off we headed home. A days exercise and social meeting complete, nothing better.

Snow, a cave, three Wainwrights & two Patterdale pubs.

17th January saw four of us set off toward Ullswater with an intent to walk but the route not yet defined. We travelled down the length of the lake and as two of the group had not been to Priests Hole, we settled on Cow Bridge car park as our commencement point for the walk. Priests Hole was an admirable goal, though The Kirkstone Pass Inn and The Brotherswater Inn were also high players in why we chose a route up to Dove Crag before turning left for Kirkstone via Red Screes.
 The weather looked reasonably clear without rain and perhaps some thin snow, the valley bottoms were clear yet one didn't need to look too high before the snow line started. We set off along Brotherswater, passing Hartsop Hall en route for the lower path of  Dovedale. In the snow this is tricky to keep to and the higher path following the wall line I had previously found much easier.

 

Passing Hartsop Hall, the view to High Hartsop Dodd.

 

Looking to Dove Crag with Priests Hole in view.

 We reached the bridge over Dovedale Beck and crossed here and after a little while the path steepened and there was a need within the group to alter the clothing layers. This becomes a steep fix the fells route to Houndshope Cove and whatever the speed you walk you will feel this in your legs. It is also a good route to take regular breathers and turn to admire the view of Patterdale from here.

 

Dove Crag and Priests Hole in cloud.

 

Looking back into Hartsop, from the Houndshope Cove ascent route.

We had donned our trail spikes here, for ice as well as snow covered the steps of this route. After a hard push up we reached the erratic stone that denotes the turn for Priests Hole.

 

Houndshope Cove erratic, looking back to the High Street range.

 

There is just something about this erratic stone, out of place in the landscape yet occupying it for many thousands of years. I always take the time to take in the view from here. We turned and the route to the cave was relatively uneventful bearing in mind the ice and snow. Having been up to it a number of times I am well versed in the with the track when covered in snow, though the ice axe was also 'at the ready'.

 

 

Priests Hole, looking across Hartsop above How.

 

No one was occupying this and we had a small break for a coffee and a sandwich here, before pressing on for Dove Crag. As we reached the ridge of the range the icy wind hit us with no protection from the fell, though thankfully the temperature was not too low to really freeze the bones. Our intention was to get to Little Hart Crag and then Red Screes before a decision on whether we had time to continue past Kirkstone Pass Inn for Caudale Moor.

 

Pressing on for Dove Crag.

 

Checking on the time, a decision to be made soon.

 

 At the Hause of Scandale Pass we came across a group of eight who had set off from Cow Bridge at much the same time as we had though they had taken a different route. It was here that one of the group recognised Holly 'The Beast' and I was pleasantly surprised to meet a person I had met on an earlier group walk on Skiddaw. These surprises help make a day memorable. Nice to see you there Ria. Part way up to Red Screes we polished off the rest of our bait, sheltering behind the wall.
 After Red Screes it was obvious that the snow was slowing our normal pace and one of our group had not been out for a couple of months. To have continued on after The Kirkstone Pass Inn would have been foolish, so the decision was made to head for the car after Kirkstone Pass.

 

Descending Red Screes, the pub just coming into heavenly view.

 

This steep descent was tricky in ice, though we made it down. The benefit of calling an end to the fell tops was that we could indulge in two pints here and not just the one, which we duly did.

A misted lens view of the first pint.

 

We still had the pass to descend and although I have never been on it I was aware of a permitted path on the north side of the road, still a suitable distance from the road itself to let the dog off the lead for the most part. This descent had the added benefit of taking us past The Kirk Stone, after which the pass takes it's name.

 

 

The Kirk Stone.

 

This was a steady descent, uneventful except for the views of the valley. We passed over a bridge and joined the Scandale Pass path at the valley bottom, passing through the ancient settlement marked on the ordnance survey map. We once again passed Hartsop Hall and were back at the car park of Cow Bridge.

 

 

View back up the valley from Cow Bridge car park.

 

Well, a good walk and after one further pint at Brotherswater Inn the day was complete a good socialising walk with friends, 17.5kms with 1100m ascent in six hours, a decent walk out in snowy conditions.