The Last Wainwright and a Celebration.

During the course of this my first year of retirement, I've been assisting a friend to complete the Wainwright Peaks. We were joined part way through by another retiree who initially joined us for fitness, then assessed how many he had to do and decided to complete the others also. This left us in the situation where we they had both done similar numbers, but separate fells, so it's been a hell of a walking schedule to try and bring some unity to what needed completed. My original colleague then had an accident which has rendered him out of action for about three month, so this left the two of us still standing to finish the round. It was never a classic start so it wasn't going to be a classic end either. The end was to be Mungrisedale Common and Wainwrights dismissive comments are well known, yet it is in the list and therefor has to be done. Now Blencathra's main fell body has had my footfall on hundreds of occasions by all routes known to man, except Mungrisedale Common and I was about to find out why.
 Before viewing the Wainwright list I would not even recognised it as a fell though knowing that area well I did expect the views to be good from it's 'summit' cairn. To use the word 'summit' is an insult to other fells for without the cairn one would not know what to aim for and in mist could wander aimlessly trying to find a point to say you had actually been there.
 We had a plan; set off from Mungrisedale, head via The Tongue path, arc round Bannerdale Crags to the Hause between Bannerdale  and Atkinson Pike(the lower section of Blencathra's 'Saddle') and head out for Mungrisedale Common cairn. There were to be five of us, Steve, Ruth, Karl, Catherine and myself, not to forget the two dogs, Dillon and Holly 'The Beast' also making numbers up. It was tight in the estate but we all crammed in, backpacks and a change of clothing included, well you've got to look smart(ish) in the pub.
 After half an hours driving we parked at the village hall as the small car park was already full. This route to Blencathra is a favourite and in poor weather, an exercise walk as I know it intimately.

 

The Mill Inn with Souther Fell, legend of The Ghost Army.

 

 

Heading for The Tongue path.

 

The Tongue, Bowscale Fell to the right with Bannerdale to the left, Glenderamackin river to the left of the path.

 

Although Souther Fell was not on our route I mention this as a scene of local legend and folklore. Such stories say as much about an area as does the landscape and a knowledge of both for visitors is essential. Souther Fell is renowned for it's Ghost Army and for further reading you can check this knowledgeable account. http://esmeraldamac.wordpress.com/2011/01/19/the-ghostly-procession-at-souther-fell/
 As you leave the hamlet of Mungrisedale you get the above view of The Tongue. It makes me snigger every time I see it as it is the classic, symmetrical mountain we all start off painting at school at the tender age of 5yrs. The weather was sunny though not altogether clear and soon we were about to feel it's turn.

 

Looking back on Mungrisedale from below The Tongue.

 

Again looking back, this is the path up The Tongue whose summit can be viewed on the left, Souther fell receding in the centre of shot.

 

Bannerdale Crags corrie path.

 

The above three photographs show the abrupt change in the weather we experienced with some of the first snows of The Lakes autumn season. You are protected by the Skiddaw Massif as you ascend The Tongue path, but once at the top are then exposed to the biting wind and it's time for further layers of clothing to cover all parts of the body. We branched off just before Bannerdale summit and headed for the path intersection below Atkinson Pike, hoping for the weather to clear so Sharp Edge would come into view.

 

Atkinson Pike, Foule Crag and Sharp Edge.

 

The intended path for Mungrisedale Common, Skiddaw in cloud, Great Calva summit on the right.

The weather did abate and on cue the Edge came into view framed by the morning low autumn sun. Catherine had been here with us once before but had to settle for descriptions, now she could see it and all the better for that, she just needs to actually do it now, but not today. The third photo is our path to The Common and if you can see a summit here you're a better man than me, though when walking you begin to pick out a dot on the horizon that is the cairn.

 

Karl and Ruth striding out along the 'path'

 

Looking north to High Pike (left), Carrock Fell (centre) and Bowscale(right).

 

This summer has been the wettest on record, the autumn has been little better and yes you've guessed it, the path was a peaty quagmire. With good boots that thankfully didn't sink below the lace ties, well not mine anyway, we waded our way to the cairn. This is no exaggeration and unless to really have to, I recommend you save this for a period of long dry weather or a freezing winter to turn The Common to an ice sheet. Now we are at our last Wainwright, where's the photo? Sorry, I went for the conquering cairn shot and the battery was flat! In compensation though I had an unfinished bottle of Ardbeg Whiskey that I'd packed along with a proper glass and this was duly dispatched by all. We headed back on much the same path though decided to go to The Tongues summit and off the steep decline for a change. In wet weather it was slippery but without major mishap we were back at the car, changed and in the Mill Inn for a couple of beers to celebrate further, well you've just got to haven't you? It was a 13km walk with 560m ascent, not a bad little walk though we would normally walk much further and higher. It was not the end of the day though as it was quickly home for a change, then straight down into Carlisle for a CAMRA beer festival for three hours then onto our injured colleagues retirement function for a further three hours. A tough day and I felt it at the end, though it wasn't through the walking. (Enjoyed it all though).

Alcock Tarn, The Hard Way.

I've steered clear of routes that seem short through a desire to use the fells as a fitness regime as well as to expand the minds horizon, through experiencing nature and mans influence on his environment. Routes that seem short, as Alcock Tarn does, have not figured in my 'I'll have a look up there' logic when planning an excursion. With careful thought these lower areas can be opened up to my experience and a decent trek also covered. The solution decided on was when we had finished a half decent walk, to tag a short one on it's end and this we did on Monday 29th October 2012.
 The car was loaded with my colleague, myself and the two trusty cockers, Dillon and Holly ('The Beast', she doesn't mind). We set off from outside Carlisle and true to form, once the mountains were skimming past the rear window of the estate car, the dogs howled aplenty to get among the fells. We parked in the lay-by on the Keswick bound side of A591 between Grasmere and The Travellers Rest and were the first car there. We were lucky to catch the clouds still enveloping the fells, at times wrapping around them, then allowing the summits to peak through before moving to some other natural yet beautiful order of nature.

 

Looking toward Dunmail Raise with Seat Sandal on the right.

Looking to Grasmere with Silver Howe peaking through the morning mist.

 Alcock Tarn was always in my sight for this walk but we wanted a leg stretcher too so headed toward The Travellers Rest across the road and taking the Tonguegill Force path through the farm and sweeping up the valley toward the force.

 

Looking back from the path to Tonguegill, Steel Fell to the right with Helm Crag on the left.

 

 

Head down and push on for Tonguegill Force, Seat Sandal in view ahead, with Great Tongue in the foreground.

 

A final look back to Helm Crag, still shrouded in the valleys morning vapour.

 

One would think that a more gradual valley path would be easier to walk than a steep incline, but boys being boys you just end up not wanting to be the one who slows the party down so this was a hard slog at heart thumping pace which only the dogs seemed not to mind. This valley was new territory for us and I was much impressed by this change of scenery and we could see the waterfall below Grisedale Hause increasing in our view as we neared.

 

 

The waterfall below The Hause.

 

The weather didn't know what it was doing but had generally kept dry and suddenly it looked promising with the mist receding and blue sky beginning to display itself. A debate followed to remove waterproof jackets which was agreed when the cloud descended on us again before we even got them in the backpacks. On they went again and deeper into the thickening cloud and now rain.

 







 

Grisedale Tarn, the view of.

 

We finally achieved the head of the hause, expecting some view of the tarn and this was it. There was no point hanging around to be awestruck by this panoramic view, so without a stop, hearts pounding ever on, we drove our legs up the steep gradient for Fairfield. This is a slog by any account and with no views it was time to bury the head to the chest and watch the ground slowly get eaten away by time and pace until the scree and the incline slowly recedes to a flatter and firmer track. Suddenly the cairn line was in view and Fairfield's summit was reached. With no one else present we had the choice of cairns and plumbed for the best shelter from the westerly wind. Time for bait and coffee.

 Fairfield may be high, have it's classic horseshoe and gorgeous views through 360 degrees, but in clag it is a barren landscape with little indicators to assist people off, so the use of a compass and a map and the ability to use them is essential in limited vision. The wrong decision here will see you go 'off piste' so take time to navigate in cloud on this fell, if you are not familiar with it.

 

 

Fairfield's nondescript summit.

 

Two cairn lines, the left leading to Hart Crag and the right, to Great Rigg.

 

You can see in the above picture how featureless the ground is off the fell. Fairfield being familiar ground, we headed on our intended route to Great Rigg and Heron Pike. We could have gone off to the right to Alcock Tarn at Heron Pike and shortened the walk considerably, though we had set out for an 18-20km walk and that would have been too short a route.

 

 

 We came out of the cloud on the journey down and were rewarded with a view of Windermere in all it's glory.

 

 We headed eventually for Rydal Mount via Nab Scar and turned at Wordsworth's former residence in his later life, onto The Old Corpse Road. It's always intriguing to come across these roads and I know of three in the National Park. This was a busy section of the walk, being just above the car parks of Rydal water, but the views were lovely and I was pleased we opted for it. With  a good walk already in our legs the steep uphill to Alcock Tarn was tiring, but it was to be the last climb. Having never been to this tarn, I wanted the experience and it was worth it, though I made a mental note to return in good clear weather.

 

 

Heading for Alcock Tarn, Grasmere and Helm Crag in view.

 

The Tarn with a clip of Windermere in the distance.

 

Here we had the last of our food and having achieved everything we set out to do that day, it was time to head down to the car and polish off a couple of pints in Tweedies bar in the village to finalise the walk. There was one final surprise ahead which was unexpected, an above ground section of the Thirlmere Viaduct that takes the water to Manchester. This was a wonderful feat of engineering and you have to stop and admire it, though I could not initially work out what this 'bridge' structure was, but finally the penny dropped.

 

 

Thirmere Viaduct crossing Greenhead Gill.

 



In ten minutes we were at the car, changed, in Tweedies and happy bunnies we were too. This was a good walk, new paths and features covered, of 18kms with 1300m ascent. It's there with my recommendation to try all, or parts of it.

A walk to Glaramara, our own RAF display and a tumble.

Mondays and Thursdays are holy days for me now, they are my two days of the week where I set out to walk in the company of fellow retirees and former colleagues and 25th October was such a Thursday. We will go out irrespective of weather as a general rule, to do otherwise means our level of fitness would suffer and others may have work commitments on other weekdays. We met at my house at 07.30hrs and set off for Seathwaite, a 45 minute drive coming from the Carlisle area. The weather reports boded well and we were not disappointed with the morning's early display as we headed down Borrowdale, the morning mist thinly lining the lakes surface.

Catbells beyond a serene Derwentwater.

 

It is difficult to resist a turn onto Kettlewell car park and thus we turned to take in the view of Catbells, across the lake. As we progressed further along the valley after this impromptu stop we were enveloped in the mist yet could make out the fell tops through this thin veil. One could only imagine the view of Borrowdale and Skiddaw you would get on such a day from Castle Crag, but that was not our destination so we continued on. We headed deep into the valley, turning left for Seathwaite and we were some of the earliest there. We parked very near to  the farm and took in the views of the broken mist on the fells all around, the dogs were keen to make a start and the three of us set off towards Stockley Bridge for my favourite route to Glaramara. Most people take the Combe Gill route to this summit but I much prefer the more challenging and shorter Hind Gill route. It is accessed by turning left at the gate just prior to the wooden bridge that crosses Hind Gill, this bridge being approximately half way toward Stockley Bridge from the farm. Be warned, it is directly up and will tax weaker legs, though if you wish, frequent stops will be rewarded with stunning views to Taylorgill Force and Seathwaite Fell for those who take the time to turn.

 

Seathwaite Fell and Taylorgill Force, enveloped on it's plateau by the morning mist.

 

The farm hidden in the receding mist. Seatoller Fell and Grey Knotts as the backdrop, Dalehead on the distant horizon.

 

Both the above pictures were taken on a stop to remove outer clothing as the route up was pumping the heart, a real calorie burner. We continued on along the path which had quickly crossed the gill so we were holding this to our left. You go through a gate in a wall running horizontally along the fell and continue up, the steepness not relenting though at times on true rock, not grass routes. When the path finally begins to diminish in it's steepness you suddenly realise it seems to have disappeared. If you still hold to the line of the gill though, you will finally meet up with the more common Combe Gill route as it winds it's way up and beyond Thornythwaite Fell. We took a shortcut angling slightly to the right, as our summit was in sight.

 

Looking back to Base Brown, Green and Great Gable beyond the Seathwaite Valley, Hind Crag framed by the remaining wisps.

 

Two of the team of three, summit ahead.

 

This is a lovely fell with excellent views of Borrowdale and Skiddaw opening up prior to the summit.  There is a slight sting in the tale just prior to this summit though, a final scramble up a rocky outcrop before a 360 degree vista opens, taking in The Langdales, Bowfell and Great End to the east and south, to complement the previously mentioned northern views. This scramble can be avoided either to the left or right though the actual marked path takes you up through this.

 

 

 

Scramble route to the summit.

 

The summit cairn to our right from the scramble. 'The Beast' was first up and waits for the rest of the party.

 

Once on at the summit we took a bait stop at the horseshoe shelter just by the cairn. It's worth the time in good weather to take in these views. Those who think of the valleys of Langdale, Wasdale and Borrowdale being great distances apart are thinking as a car driver. As a walker they are actually quite close and it dawns on the inexperienced when at this summit.

 

 

Great Gable and the view to Wasdale.

 



Our next summit was to be Allen Crags, then to move on beyond the valley junction that is Esk Hause to Esk Pike, before turning back to take in Great End, intending on dropping down The Band to Sprinkling Tarn, onto Seathwaite Fell and finally back to the farm. I say intending as we never managed this final fell, but more of that later. Glaramara is an easy fell to get disorientated on, there are a number of false summits that walkers aim for which can draw you away from the marked path. I mention this as there is one rocky outcrop where the path way is easy and any other is a possible fall, so do this fell in good weather if not used to it. We reached Allen Crags and the southern view, which was temporarily obscured, returned and opened up our route to Esk Pike.

 

 

Allen Crags summit achieved.

 

This was for Ruth, a former colleague, her first time on these fells, which had been the main reason for this as a chosen route. That said though, as we say, "A walk is a walk, is a walk" and the varying views are tremendous. It may not be a classic, 'Wainwright bagging walk' but why should it be? Although we were engaged in tidying up some summits Ruth had not been on, for us other two it was a 'miles in the legs' walk, we were after all, out in 'God's gym'.

 We moved off to pass Esk Hause where two wild campers were perched. This Hause is the classic fell pony route for the three valleys of Borrowdale, Langdale and Wasdale and is the highest hause(high point between two valleys) in the lakes. Consequently it is just a short uphill section to Esk Pike, this normally being associated with the Langdale valley/Bowfell range.

 

 

A further Wainwright summit, Esk Pike viewing the southern side of the Scafell range.

 

This was our furthest point we would be from the start, we then turned back heading for Great End and Seathwaite Fell. It was now that we were to experience our finest moment of the walk, shortly to be followed by our worst one. Two to three minutes of walking, returning broadly down the path we had ascended on, we heard the roar slowly building and realising what it would be I quickly moved for my camera and was in position for the crescendo that was two phantom jets arcing through Esk Hause, banking to head toward The Great Moss and Hardknott Fell area before disappearing in what seemed but a moment, along the Duddon Valley.

 

 

RAF jet viewed from Esk Pike, Great End to the right.

 

Roaring away on an 'Op', heading toward The Great Moss', another jet soon to follow behind.

 

 Throughout 28years as a police officer I've been to a number of tragedies where these have crashed usually with fatal consequences. We held great respect for the pilots and the risk they put themselves to, training within this mountainous terrain to hone their skills if ever they are needed in a real incident. It must be fun though and the ultimate 'boys toy'!.

 Once out of view we put away the cameras to move off down the rock descent and then it happened. The next step taken by Ruth was a slight misjudgement where she caught her foot on a rock protrusion, tried to redress, lurched forward to hunt for a foothold and tumbled down toward jagged rocks below her. This was bone breaking terrain which she hit, bounced, rolled and fell further onto more jagged rocks before coming to a stop. You could see she had tried to get an arm out to break the fall and on both bounces had managed to do so, though I don't know how she did. Think of any bone in the body and you could easily break it with such a fall skull included, but as we dashed to her  she was conscious, and capable of moving all her limbs, though clearly dazed. She insisted on standing and was in a great deal of pain though thankfully only muscular, mainly to her upper thighs and the back of her knuckle. Having tumbled, that was a positive result on what appeared as an obvious MRT incident. Despite strong suggestions from us she refused to call it a day and make our way down, insisting on moving on to Great End. She was satisfied it was just bruising and wanted to keep moving. I've come to know this young lady over the last 10yrs and the way in which she drives herself to achieve anything I hold in the highest regard. She was in pain but continued on with nothing more than an Ibuprofen tablet to dull it. We got to Great End summit and finished our bait with one final stop at the cairn.

 

 

Ruth in blue and this is after the tumble.

 





 

The central gulley of Great End as viewed from the top.

 

 

Great End summit.

 

It was clear that the pain was kicking in at the cairn and time was starting to be our limiting factor, so rather than The Band steep route off toward Seathwaite Fell, we decided on the longer but more gradual route off via Calf Cove and back to the farm by Grains Gill. This missed out Seathwaite Fell, but it's still there for another day for her to set her sights on.

 



 

Looking toward Grains Gill, Derwentwater in the distance.

 

The weather was closing in, having had the best of it in the morning and the route down was uneventful, returning to the car after just over 5 hours walking. This was 15kms and just over 1200m ascent, so a decent trek out, though not a big one, by our normal standards.

 

 

Seathwaite Farm as viewed on the return leg.

 

 Now a walk in company is not a walk completed until you've supped some ale and this we did at the Scafell Hotel Walkers Bar at Rossthwaite. It can be a little 'samey' but there is a good selection and it is always well kept beer. A good walk, a very eventful day. How's Ruth I hear you ask? That lady was walking having completed a night shift and was back in on nights that very night. As I said, I've a great deal of respect for that lady, 'driven' is what she is.

 



Sail, Crag Hill, Grassmoor, via Mill Beck.

For a while now I've been looking for routes within the cumbrian fells that are not normally covered by others to give variations on classic routes. I have covered the routes to Grassmoor and also those to Crag Hill(Eel Crag) from both Braithwaite and Buttermere/Crummock on a great number of occasions. There is a valley that I have walked only once about eight years ago and have kept meaning for a re visit and this time to use it for a route up onto these aforementioned fells. The valley is the Mill Beck, Sail Beck, Addacombe Beck route, between Whiteless Pike and Knott Rigg. This is a route that takes a walker away from The Newlands Valley road, if you want to walk from Buttermere to Braithwaite and keep off tarmac and steep inclines. Our intention was to use it as a route into the fells before doubling back over Sail, Crag Hill and Grassmoor to return to Buttermere.
 The two of us parked up above Buttermere Church. The two dogs were in the cage in the back and had whined with excitement once through Lorton and were getting a backward view of The Mosser Fells and Hopegill Head. The sight of mountains sets them off; it's nice to hear but after 15minutes of whining, you're getting sick of it.
 We set off heading down to the gate directly opposite The Bridge Hotel that gives access to the track running up the north side of Mill Beck which leads through the oak wood to the stile over the drystone wall which we would then follow. You can also park at the National Trust car park in Buttermere, the footpaths will converge near the Stile.

 

Millbeck and it's oak wood, heading for the stile.

 

'The Beast' about to bound up the stile. The wall is the marker to then follow to the right.

 

The walk from here on is not our normal 'out of the car and straight up something steep' walk or as we refer to them 'as the crow flies' route to the summit. This is a long, gentle, ascent to the valley head before a short upward climb through heather to the crossroads of paths between Scar Crags and Sail. Be aware that the route seems to divide into two paths on Whiteless Breast. The lower 'path' follows the line of the beck but goes through reeds and swamp. We took this initially though can't say quite where. The path proper is above the reeds line and best described as , 'if there appears a path above you, then that is probably it'.

 

 

Sail Beck meandering to Mill Beck, Ard Crags to the right, Sail to the left; Causey Pike's distinctive buttress framed by the valley head. You can just make out the higher correct path and the lower incorrect one.

 

 

Addacombe Beck, with Addacombe Hole above. This looks like an interesting route to try to access Crag Hill from as another route up to these high fells.

 

Although not the sunniest day, it had been dry up to the valley head, but as we branched off to the left for the paths junction on the east side of Sail, the cloud began to descent and envelope us so we switched to waterproof jackets whilst in the mist. As I stated earlier, I've walked the valley path once before but this ascent to the path junction was a first time for me, albeit a short section. I was surprised at the erosion on this with deep gouges in the soil, at times at knee height. I assume this is caused from walkers wearing away the foliage and water washing gullies into these walked areas exposing shale underneath the topsoil.

 We were now on territory very well known to us, being regular traversers of The Coledale Horseshoe; although cloudy this route is committed to memory no matter what the weather. We turned for Sail and it's new 'fix the fells' winding path that is correcting the erosion caused by walkers and mountain bikers. Some regard this as a bigger scar on the landscape than the erosion it is attempting to counteract, but I believe it is it's newness and in time the banking will blend in as similar paths on Scales Fell and Blease Fell have now done.

 

 

Sail, with it's new path. You canjust  make out the direct descent route that used to be the eroded path.

 

We made our way up this by getting our head down and ticking off the eight bends on the right and nine on the left. It's a way of not looking up while the heart is pounding but knowing still how close you are to the top. The summit cairn is just visible to the right at the top of this, the path not actually passing over the fell top.

 

 

Dillon "I don't care, this is top enough for me!"

 



 

Beyond Sail we made our way along the craggy Scar. It's a walk though occasionally you need to get your hands on the rocks to assist; safe though.

 

 

And then we make the barren landscape that is Crag Hill and it's trig point.

 

We were intending on having a bait stop here but the wind had picked up. Our next fell top was to be Grassmoor and there is a spiral, three spoke shelter on it's summit giving some protection from the wind. This wasn't fierce by any means but good to shelter from when at rest and differnt from our last visit in January when we were getting blown over in iced conditions. To this point we had not seen a living sole though began to meet others coming off Grassmoor, with a lone walker also at the cairn who was engaged on his version of The Coledale Horseshoe. Grassmoor is another barren landscape fell with no distinctive features to assist you off. The Lad Hows path is a difficult one to locate if you can't catch sight of the ridge it descends, but we knew it well enough and soon located it in cloud. Once on the ridge you can't really go wrong and we very quickly began to get out of the mist with the Buttermere valley opening up before us.

 

 

Lad Hows, Whiteless Pike to the left and beyond in cloud, Haystacks and High Stile range.

 

I love the vista of Buttermere, Crummock Water and Lowswater you get off this route, with High Stile, Great Gable, Pillar and Robinson always in view as you walk down. The botton of this path leads to the famous Rannerdale and it's shock of historic bluebells 'blueing' the valley floor when viewed from on high. If ever you take this as a route onto Grassmoor however, beware. It is a relentless slog as it is one of those rare routes where you can see the fell top from the valley bottom. You never seem to get any closer no matter how long you walk, but in that regard it's a spirit tester and worth the effort; you can always rest, turn and take in this view.

 

 



 

"Come on, hurry up you of only two legs!"

 

Here we have Crummock and Melbreak, with Lowswater and the Mosser Fells in the distance.

 

Once at the valley floor we had two choices, over the top of Rannerdale or up Squat beck, in other words, steep or gradual. I had been out walking the day before and was feeling this. The two of us have put some long walks in recently which have made us unpopular at home, landing back at 19.30hrs and 20.30hrs(when we had said we would be back for 17.00hrs), so we opted for the quicker Squat beck route to score brownie points. This is a beautiful gradual incline up a valley between Rannerdale Knotts and Whieless Pike, but I hope to cover this better in the bluebell season so will leave it there. When at it's head we then dropped to meet our original path again, at the Stile.

 

 

 

The descent through the oak wood at Millbeck, same path, different direction.

 

 

.... and finally, out onto the Buttermere raod opposite The Bridge Hotel before the short tarmac trek to the car.

 

 This was a worthy walk of 15kms with 1200m ascent, not the biggest, but good enough after a 17kms yesterday. Try it, it's different, the views tremendous, you'll like this.

 I say .... and finally, well, not quite. No group walk is complete without a trip to a pub and it wasn't to be The Bridge or The Fish. If we are ever near it, the pub for us is The Kirkstile Inn, an iconic public house just at the foot of Melbreak and Lowswater village. It has it's own microbrewery, though these days the brews are done at Hawkshead, the brewing room now converted to an eating room; incidentally, my mate says they make the best steak and ale pie he's ever eaten and I can't disagree. This and heavenly micro beers, why would you go anywhere else?